October 16, 2003


Support for female Peace Corps applicants flourished in our discussion group as a result of the Jane Magazine article I referred to in the previous post. They came from men as well as women. We may have been sleepless, but we were definitely united!

"Courage is not the absence of Fear, but having fear and doing it anyway."

"It is a far, far better thing I do than I have ever done...
It is a far, far better place I go than I have ever been." -- Charles Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities

IF -- Rudyard Kipling

If you can keep your head when all about you
Are losing theirs and blaming it on you,
If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you
But make allowance for their doubting too,
If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,
Or being lied about, don't deal in lies,
Or being hated, don't give way to hating,
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise:

If you can dream--and not make dreams your master,
If you can think--and not make thoughts your aim;
If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same;
If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken
Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,
Or watch the things you gave your life to, broken,
And stoop and build 'em up with worn-out tools:

If you can make one heap of all your winnings
And risk it all on one turn of pitch-and-toss,
And lose, and start again at your beginnings
And never breath a word about your loss;
If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on!"

If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue,
Or walk with kings--nor lose the common touch,
If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you;
If all men count with you, but none too much,
If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds' worth of distance run,
Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,
And--which is more--you'll be a Man, my son!


Can't sleep again. My house smells like green curry. My stomach is growling, mouth's watering, and it’s not the usual deep sleep drool either. Oh, how I wish...


It may be due to the spate of of discussions in the Peace Corps discussion group about volunteer safety. The October issue of Jane Magazine has a less than balanced article about the incidence of sexual assault, rape, and sickness among female Peace Corps volunteers. Yeah, I know, highly reputable and worthy reading, right? It's shoddy, biased reporting, but it got sent around to the discussion group and is scaring half the women applicants to death about serving. Family members of applicants and volunteers get a hold of this stuff and (rightfully) go off the deep end. Granted, there are significant dangers when going into war-torn, poverty-stricken regions of the world. And we should not, and for the most part, do not take the potential risk for granted when we apply. We are smart, young (save myself), adults, and not the naïve, helpless nymphs the article portrays female volunteers.

Indeed, the Peace Corps can be more responsive in mitigating risks, but no one can guarantee absolute safety in most of the locations where Peace Corps volunteers go. Women are harassed in the First World countries just as much as in the Third World. Physical assaults hidden behind closed doors and muffled by social stigma occur in our very own neighborhoods.

As for illnesses and tummy aches, I used to get sick every time I went to Bali on a 5-Star holiday, as well as on safari in Namibia. It’s the nature of the microscopic beasts! Everyone has to use his or her own judgment about these things and practice what they have been taught by the Peace Corps. It is the way of life, being a stranger to new organisms.

A returned volunteer who served in Cameroon said it best in her response to the article, "...Peace Corps Volunteers don't serve in Epcot Disneyworld". Oh, how I wish…

Now, where’s that curry?


I received my assignment kit from headquarters, which describes in detail the nature of my assignment as an NGO Development volunteer:

The Need
"...the need for NGOs to be bettere managed, more financially sound, and have a well-developed, thought-out strategic plan.

...many NGOs face similar problems, such as: limited funding sources due to lack of knowledge about fundraising; lack of trained staff; limited understanding about the rules and regulations that govern the organization; limited English capability; and lack of organizational management skills."

My Mandate
"...focus on organizational development, strategic planning, fundraising, and general counseling.

...long-term sustainability of change and reform, increase public participation in community life, and democratization of the decision-making process.

...teach language and communication skills to both [my] colleagues and others."

Potential Projects
"...establishing office and management systems; developing training programs; project development and implementation; community outreach; resource allocation and management; computer skills training; building partnerships with other organizations; conducting and analyzing a community needs assessment; and building the overall capacity within the NGO."

The Goal
"...increased ability and skill level among local NGO staff to reach out to the communities they serve in a way that results in increased opportunities for communities to prosper.

1. Strengthen local NGO capacity.
2. Develop an outreach program that will assist the NGOs to be better connected to their communities.
3. Establish and NGO network to exchange ideas and best practices and maximize resources so that NGOs can assist their communities more effectively and efficiently."

Keep in mind this is the first NGO Development program that Peace Corps is implementing in Uzbekistan. These are noble, but lofty goals, particularly when corruption is a way of living and survival, not only for government officials and businessmen, but also for the people in general. This makes it very difficult to create a civil society that is willing to put their time and resources towards a greater good.

You think I'll have any hair left when I'm through?


I hope all of you will refer back to this list when I'm out in the field. I'm sure it will dwindle down to more humble necessities like soft toilet paper and $1 bills ;)

Amazon Wish List

Not an absolute necessity, but just plain nifty. Will save me from bringing sleaves of CD's.

Apple Pro Speakers
The sound from my PowerBook is actually not that bad if I'm sitting at or near it. But its difficult to hear DVDs clearly. This will help make drabby Soviet-style block apartments feel more like home.

iPod Media Reader
Boy am I greedy!

How can you not buy one of the best designed products ever?

PacSafe Security System
This is probably the most essential. I imagine using it to lock up my valuables inside my home, too.

i-Zone Pocket Polaroid Camera
A sure way to make friends, break the ice, and a handy present when I show up empty handed. Of course, I'll need the Pocket Film, too. The Pocket Sticker Film would be great for kids!


Obviously, this will be culled as the priority items get weighed in, but for now...it grows and grows and grows...all to fit into two maximum 50lb. bags!


- Large backpack, inside a large duffle
- Duffle wheely
- Day pack
- Book bag
- Tote bag
- Small sling bag
- Fannie pack
- Camera case
- Computer bag
- Luggage locks: key and combo
- PacSafe security system


- winter jacket
- scarf, gloves, hat
- rain jacket
- fleece
- fleece vest
- thermals (2)
- sweater jacket

Work Clothes

- long skirts (3 summer, 3 winter)
- trousers
- blouses (2)
- light jacket
- turtlenecks (3)
- sweaters (2)
- tights: black, brown (3)
- earrings, watch

Home/Leisure Clothes

- sweat pants
- sweat shirt
- pajamas
- t-shirts/tank tops (4)
- underwear, bras (lots)
- socks: black, brown, sports (8)
- jeans
- shirts
- capris (2)
- swimsuit
- sarongs


- hiking boots
- leather boots
- dress shoes
- dress sandles
- sneakers
- tevas
- flip flops

Trekking Equipment

- hiking pants
- shorts
- shirts (2)
- bandana
- gators
- gortex jacket
- liner socks (2)
- regular socks (2)
- sleeping bag
- sleeping pad
- Nalgene bottles (2)
- sunglasses
- baseball caps

Toiletries/Medicine (supplemental to Med Kit)

- toothbrush
- toothpaste
- dental floss
- lip balm
- soap
- bath sponge/loofa
- facial cleanser
- facial moisturizer
- body moisturizer
- deoderant
- shampoo
- conditioner
- towel
- soad dish
- toilet paper
- feminine...you know (6 mos.)
- Vagisil (cream and suppositories)
- razor and refill blades
- scissors
- tweezers
- nail clippers
- nail file
- callous file
- hair brush
- scrunchies, clips
- ear plugs
- eye mask
- make up
- sunblock
- Tylanol: regular, colds
- Aleve
- Pepto Bismol
- Claritin
- Vitamins
- Iron supplement
- Ground Psyllium
- Moleskin
- Sewing kit
- Safety pins

Geek/Tech List

- PowerBook
- External Hard Drive (250G)
- External Floppy Disc Drive
- Floppy Discs (CD's???)
- iPOD
- mini-speakers
- Nikon F55
- Film
- Lead film bag
- Fuji FinePix
- Smart Media Memory Cards
- Smart Media Reader
- i-Zone polaroid camera
- Pocket Film, regular & stickers
- Shortwave radio
- Converter and adapters
- Power surge protector
- Rechargeable batteries
- Swiss Army Knife/Leatherman
- Maglite
- Headlamp


- Family/Friends Album
- Passport/Immunization Card/Driver's license
- Banking
- Insurance
- Contacts
- Journals
- Books
- Index cards
- Atlas, maps
- English dictionary, thesaurus


- $300 cash in $10, $5, $1's
- Credit Cards
- Debit Cards


- wall calendars
- NYC souvenirs
- postcards
- jewelry
- scarfs
- ziplock bags
- sponges (bath/kitchen)
- crayons
- balls
- baseball cards
- backgammon
- scrabble
- globe (inflatable)
- magic tricks
- coffee
- chocolate

Food (to be mailed)

- fish sauce
- Thai jasmine rice
- olive oil
- curry paste
- coconut milk
- oatmeal
- soy milk
- powdered drink mix
- pepermint tea
- hot chocolate mix
- red wine


- sheets (2 sets of top sheets)
- pillow
- rubber cleaning gloves
- bug spray
- tupperware
- duct tape
- puddy/blue tack
- cooking utensils

Am I forgetting something?...What would YOU bring for two years and living on less than $100 a month?


The following questions have been answered by Uz PVCs, RPVCs or someone experienced with living in the region. Most recent questions are posted on the bottom of the list.

1. Is it better to live with a family or in own apt? I'm older and not used to living with other people.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both. I really won't know what I will prefer until I get there.

2. Does the PC restrict/discourage subsidizing housing out of own pocket? If I get my own apt.

The PC currently financially encourages PCVs to live with host families. We PCVs that live in cities and on our own are trying to get them to change this and they probably will by the time you go to site. Unless you are in a village, you can definitely get an apartment.

I'm 34 and fresh out of corporate life so I use my own money for many things to make life here a little easier. You don't need to but, if you can, treating yourself is more than possible. The only thing with that is to be culturally sensitive to where you are dropping money. Many host country nationals (HCNs - do you know you are about to be plunged into acronym hell?) assume that all Americans are rich. In order to not get constantly ripped off and hit up for money, it's probably best to act like you have no money. As it is, we get paid at about 3x what the average monthly salary is. That doesn't make it as easy to live as you would think because most people don't live on their own here and it costs more. You can live slightly better than a local on PC salary.

There are no rules against spending your own money for something. I think there may be something about buying property - but that would be tough anyway. The other thing - what is in PC policy or even what is encouraged is not really enforceable at site. You can do your own thing.

Finding a livable apartment that you can stay in for a long time may be hard. I've had to move 4 times in a year. People here aren't used to renting out apartments so some things that come up may be a problem - the owners may keep stuff in your apartment that they want to come get access to often. Or, they may sell the apartment causing you to move with little notice. When you get assigned to site, other PCVs and your counterpart will be able to help you figure out what you need to do in your particular site.

3. What is in the medical kit PC hands out? So I don't duplicate my med kit.

- ace bandages
- adhesive tape
- First Aid & Safety Handbook
- antacid tablets (Tums)
- antibiotic oitment (Bacitracin/Neomycin/Polymycin B)
- antiseptic antimicrobial skin cleaner (Hibiclens)
- band-aids
- butterfly closures
- calamine lotion
- cepacol lozenges
- condoms
- dental floss
- Benadryl
- insect repellent stick (Cutter's)
- water purification tablets
- lip balm
- oral rehydration salts and Gatorade
- oral thermometer
- Sudafed
- Robitussin lozenges
- scissors
- sterile gauze pads
- Visine
- antifungal cream (Tinactiin)
- tweezers

4. Should I bring any kitchen supplies?

I can't think of anything that wouldn't be available in at least Tashkent. I'm in the PCV lounge now and am asking others what they can think of - can openers - just the hand crank type. After a lot of looking, I found a garlic press in Ferghana. I brought a coffee press but you can buy them in Tashkent. I bought a coffee bean grinder in Navoi. (The coffee itself is the hardest to get here - I have friends send me coffee from the U.S.) I've seen juicers, microwaves, blenders and other appliances. Basic kitchen tools are around everywhere.

5. Are there any restrictions on bringing in certain foods? My mother wants me to bring fish sauce.

I don't know of any food restrictions.

All boxes shipped to the PC adress in Tashkent are opened and inspected at the U.S. Embassy. Some of my boxes to site have been opened - strangely, it seems that they've been opened in Moscow for some reason. Even the food boxes inside were opened - down to where they were individually packaged. a few things were missing after the boxes were opened. Most packages get to me unopened.

6. How are the supply of books at Headquarters? I plan to send a box.

There is a pretty good supply of books at the office and being passed around by PCVs. Those of us that are book junkies have shipped books by m-bag. One PCV I know even orders from Amazon. You will do A LOT of reading here. Bring the things you've always wanted to read but didn't have time.

7. If I want to go camping, should I bring my own tent? For getaway weekends in the mountains.

If you have space, bring the tent. You can arrange treks that include equipment but it's also nice to go off on your own. I think a sleeping bag is a must - for camping, sleepovers and cold winter nights when there is no heat. (Not normal in cities but definitely frequent in villages.) I also brought one of those hostel sheet sleeping bags that I found useful in the summer.

8. What kind of things make the best gifts?

Wall calendars, pens, matchbox, jewelry, postcards, American souvenirs. Quantity matters more than quality.

9. What kind of learning games or fun games should I bring?

It's nice to have games you can play when you are getting to know your host family - during and after training. Some games that I've seen work well without understanding the same language are Uno and Skip Bo - which is like Uno.

Someone suggested magic tricks for the kids.

10. What can I bring for other volunteers and PC staff?

People have a pretty regular network of having stuff mailed. Also, now that there are a lot of us here, someone is usually going home for a visit soon and we give them requests. Maybe current newspapers. The staff might like a few entertainment magazines. This really isn't necessary though.

11. Should I start learning Russian now? Will I need it for NGO Development?

Most of the PCVs learn Uzbek in training. I learned Russian because Navoi used to be more of a Russian city. Those of use that learned Russian are in Navoi, Tashkent, Nukus and a few sporadic towns where they are teaching in Russian schools. You can get all the language you need during the PC training and studying ahead of time isn't really necessary, but can't hurt of course. Also, if you are good at languages, learning both Uzbek and Russian is helpful. The Uzbek is better for interactions with HCNs. Russians is way more useful in the cities.

I don't know if they are planning to teach Russian to all NGO Dev PCVs but it makes sense.

12. I don't like lamb. Can I refuse lamb dishes politely?

Yes. Although you get over being a picky eater - mystery meat is pretty common. If you want to avoid something right out, it's easiest to claim medical reasons. You will be pushed and pressured by HCNs, but can definitely refuse and just accept your role as a "weird American".

Some PCVs even eat vegetarian for the most part. Although that usually just means the meat is picked out of whatever the dish is.

13. I can't drink that much. Can I refuse vodka shots politely?

I think I'll be able to manage this once I get there and get a sense of the norms and customs. Observe first, and then make the necessary declarations that is culturally sensitive as well as fitting with my constitution.

14. If I send myself a box, will it be difficult to get it from headquarters to the training site?

You'll have to cart it there yourself - via plane, train or automobile. But if you can carry it to the transportation, it's not a problem. You can also keep boxes or parts of boxes int he PCV lounge and bring things out to site when you can. Or, you can ask PC staff to bring it with them in a PC Land Cruiser when they are coming out - usually at least once every 2 months or so.

Airmail boxes can take 6 to 8 weeks. Surface mail boxes - 3 weeks to 4 months. It's really nice to get mail. Ask your family and friends to send stuff before you leave so it starts coming in during your training.

15. Looks like I'll need to be professionally dressed. Do you think I can still buy second-hand stuff from the US, or will it seem junky? I don't normally wear skirts so will have to buy some.

What you hear about dress is way more conservative that reality. I would think that most NGO volunteers will be placed in cities and you could definitely wear pants/slacks everyday as long as they were neat and clean. Think business casual. You would only need to wear skirts 100% of the time if you were in a small village. You could probably get away with bringing 1 or 2 conservative skirts for guesting at traditional Uzbek homes and be safe.

In the city of Navoi, I am oftened asked why I wear long skirts all the time. I dress more conservatively than most of the locals my age. But, as I said, city life is a little different. I sometimes wish I had nicer "party" clothes. You get sick of your clothes real quick. But, I also think luggage space is better spent on things other than clothes. You can buy clothes here - the quality isn't that great but you can get what you need. I also wish I brought a couple of more things that are "comfort" clothes for me. I miss my ratty old pair of demin overalls for just wearing around my apartment.

Second hand stuff would be totally fine. People here wear the same outfits for years and years without buying new outfits so things are pretty worn. A lot of the PCVs are outfitted from goodwill back home and it's fine.

Bring undershirts. Sweaters take up space in your luggage. I only brought 2. I wash them only once every few weeks (this is not gross here) but wash the undershirts instead. (The you don't smell funny.) People honestly wear the exact same thing for a week straight. The is convenient in winter when drying things on the outside line takes a few days.

16. I am SEAsian and will often be mistaken for an Uzbek. What are your views or experiences of other Asian volunteers and how they handle themselves?

17. I noticed that there are several Uz PCVs who have a web-site. Currently, there is a lot of controversy in DC about them. The policy seems to be up to the respective Country Director. What do you know of the Uz CD's views on PCV web-sites?

As far as controversy about pcvs and their websites, the people I've talked to including myself haven't heard of any controversy but maybe I'm just out of the loop.

18. Should I bring more than the required 20 passport photos?

The 20 passport photos is more than enough. I ended up having about 5 left over so I gave one to my first host family during training.

I don't know why they want 20 little pictures...it seems like a lot. They had everyone in my group hand them over right when we got off the plane so I have no idea how many are "left."

19. Should I bring a travel blow dryer to dry my hair in winter?

For me it's not that bad anymore since I chopped most of it off shortly after I arrived so I just towel dry it. There are blowdryers available to buy.

Uzbeks will be very concerned if you attempt to leave the house with wet hair. I wash mine at night so I don't have to wait for it to dry in the morning.

Don't like showering at night? Don't worry. You won't be doing it on a daily basis anymore. You get used to this quicker then you'd think.

20. How do you handle your winter woollen clothes which have to be dry-cleaned?

I didn't bring any. I'm not going to say not to bring them, just use your judgement and know that dry cleaners are few and far between here (been told that there are a couple in Tashkent).

21. Are there no chickens in Uz?

Yes there're chickens here to eat, just expensive and sometimes questionable (espically in summer when you know the chicken meat has been sitting out all day w/out refidgeration....but there are supermarkets
where you can buy it). Families may also have chickens that they will kill and eat.

22. Do the Peace Corps offices allow you to use their internet connection? I'm wondering if I can hook up my computer to it so I can use a web-cam with my family.

Peace Corps will not allow you to hook up your computer to their server. Opens up too many security risks.

23. If our care packages definitely get opened and there are changes for pilfering, what kinds of things should I NOT have sent to me?

I get my mail here at the office and all the packages have been opened but I haven't had anything taken. I have the people sending them make an invetory list which I double check when I get the package. The packages that come to the office are mainly opened by the embassy. There are stories though of stuff being taken. I just wouldn't have really expensive stuff sent, like a really nice camera, computer, etc. If you can't afford to lose it, don't send it is a good philosophy to keep in mind.

24. What is the current situation with Karimov being reportedly ill? Any update?

Karimov is not ill, it's a rumor that Uzbeks like to tell.

25. Have you felt the impact of increase in import taxes? Are there fewer goods on the shelves these days?

I believe the increase in import taxes happened right before my group came in Jan or right about the time we arrived. It's hard to say what the impact is because we don't make enough to really buy anything that would be affected. There's still plenty of applicances on the shelves from what I can tell. Things are a bit more expensive, for example, the cheapest blender is about 40,000 cym (1,000 cym roughly is equal to $1) and vcrs that are both PAL and NTSC (to play american videos) are around 100,000 cym. A problem that keeps happening is that the government likes to periodically close down the bazars where you can buy a lot of the stuff for cheaper than in the stores.

That happened during my training. Yes, we definitly saw the store shelves and bazaar stalls empty out. It didn't affect us too badly because in training you are heavily dependent on your host family for all your food and they just get what they need on the black market. It was no doubt a hardship for them however. And if it had happened while we are at our volunteer sites it might have been difficult. Things are back on the market now...except when we get those police raids...but prices go up all the time. Our living allowance is being re-evaluated to account for this. Volunteers still with host families (like me) seem to be okay on the current living allowance, but volunteers with apartments have to budget more carefully. I'm looking for an apartment now and that's one thing that is really pricey...people see I'm an American and jack up the price so they can deal with the higher food/clothing/gas prices.

25. Is it considered insensitive to give HCNs luxury gifts because they then have to live without it when it runs out? I'm thinking about things like the free samples of cosmetics we get here to give to women.

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