Off to the Peace Corps...Uzbekistan!

2004-01-05T09:40:00.000-05:00

Consolidation

I've been keeping two blogs (one personal and this one for Peace Corps) and have decided to consolidate them into one and use Wonderlustress from now on. I am so close to leaving for Uz anyway that my future posts will be about Uz and the Peace Corps. Plus you'll get a little extra by way of my personal life.

If you don't follow me to Wonderlustress, then GO FOR IT if you're just thinking about joining the Peace Corps; STICK WITH IT if you are enduring the application process; HANG IN THERE if you're preparing emotionally and materially to depart; and A HEARTY GREETING from Uz if you are a PCV or RPCV!

2003-12-31T17:13:00.000-05:00

...yes, it is 2 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

I will have to start packing at some point, but I'm soaking in the present moments for when I do inevitably leave.

2003-12-23T23:55:00.000-05:00

3 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

And how do I feel?...excited, scared, sad, skeptical, and overwhelmed, but most of all I feel panicked, and down right cranky! (A warning of the emotional rambles to come.)

Christmas has made my preparations ten times more hectic and has left me with very little time for much needed reflection about the imminent change in my life. My days have been full of executing tasks on my daily lists, driving, buying, deciding, exchanging, making new lists. The little time in between has been spent imagining my absence from the everyday life of my loved ones when I'm gone. Of course this has been made more acute while preparing my will. The reality of my absence made clearer by the considerations.

Perhaps I’m depressed by the recent morbid thoughts. I have internalized how others will feel after I leave for Uz, realizing the void of what I bring to their daily lives now. I think about how empty the house will be without me, how quiet a drive in the car will be without me, how there will be no more midnight chatters or morning coffees. The most distressing is how there will be no other end of the telephone with me on it for anyone until a few months after training and I am settled into a house with (hopefully, but highly unlikely) a phone. Even then, it will be sporadic and unreliable. Calls from Uz will also be prohibitively expensive, if and when, I can find service. Unfortunately, email and the internet cannot yet close the gap of hearing each other's voice, which is as close to seeing and touching as we can get from a distance.

How is this going to work? How can my loved ones here share their lives with me if they can't even pick up the telephone and call me when they have exciting news, or boring news, when they're sad or stressed, when they have an important decision to make, or when they just plain miss me? I'm afraid I will feel trapped, without the power to maintain both lives. I'm afraid that trying to hold on to this life will handicap my effectiveness in Uz. I'm afraid I can't have everything and I have everything to lose. Whether I go or stay has sacrifices I am not prepared to make.

I have been conflicted about all of this for some time, and no, it hasn't gotten any better or easier. The panic I feel now from my looming departure is suffocating.

2003-12-17T23:21:00.000-05:00

Questions/Emergencies

Here is the Peace Corps contact information if anyone has questions about my safety and status while at post in Uz. In the event of an emergency, they have the latest information as to my status and whereabouts if you cannot get in touch with me. But before you use it, PLEASE go through the following considerations FIRST:

ONE: Remember that lapses in communication with me either by phone, mail, e-mail, or posting on this site, DOES NOT mean that there is something wrong. Sometimes mail gets lost, phone service is unreliable, internet service is too slow to post often, or I have merely immersed myself in work and do not have time.

TWO: PLEASE use rational judgment should a perceived emergency arise, such as seeing or reading news reports about an event in or near Uz. DO NOT assume that I will be directly affected and DO NOT assume the worst until you learn more about what is really going on. Wait a day or two before you call to give everyone in the system a chance to gather information.

THREE: The Peace Corps has a very effective and proven emergency response system to reach everyone in country, even in remote areas, and will ensure our safety as their first priority in the event of an emergency. DO NOT PANIC.

General Questions and Status, from 9am-5pm EST, Mon.-Fri.
Office of Special Services (OSS)
(800) 424-8580 ext. 1470
(202) 692-1470

Emergency, after hours answering service of OSS above
(202) 638-2574

2003-12-16T13:33:00.000-05:00

4 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

Received my "Staging Kit" today from the Peace Corps. Staging is a two day event that takes place for all volunteers prior to leaving the country. UZ17 will have our staging in Philadelphia from 13-15 January, and the schedule looks like an intense cram of introductions, policies/procedures, safety, cross-cultural issues, logistics, and how to ensure success in the upcoming three months of training in Uz.

There is also the pre-departure checklist, which includes very important considerations like assigning a Power of Attorney to someone who can handle my affairs (i.e., banking, taxes, apartment sub-let, etc.). This will most likely be a neutral party like my lawyer. I must also choose two emergency contacts who can react quickly and rationally (the instructions ask NOT to assign parents, although they can be contacted, too). Lastly, it feels morbid, but I should have a will drawn up.

Someone also has to open my mail, assess their relative importance, send them to me, and handle follow up instructions when things come up. I'll have to collect all the things I need to file my taxes from overseas, too! There is just a bunch of little logistical life matters that must be either covered remotely, or done by someone I can trust. All I can say is thank God for internet and telephone banking, automatic bill payments, etc. At least I can still maintain a level of direct control over my finances. *hope*

2003-12-13T18:12:00.000-05:00

Brrrrrr....

HAMWeather

2003-12-09T15:47:00.000-05:00

5 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

Five more weeks until my entire life changes forever.

Everyone I've come across thus far, who have served in the Peace Corps, has no regrets. From those who served full term, to those who had early termination (quit), to those who were administratively separated (kicked out), not one of them would change a thing. Quite remarkable given the number of horror stories and gory details about service...the toilets, the harassment, the diarrhea, the loneliness, the frustration, the thefts, the dog-bites, the bugs, the stone throwing, the food, the cold, the isolation.

But I guess everything balances itself out somehow by the awesome moments of interacting with people from a different culture, learning about them and learning about yourself from them, giving them a part of yourself and for once feeling useful to the world. There's also the travel, seeing faraway lands you never thought you'd see, and having memories of a lifetime. And there's the knowing that surviving this would help to change the world and lead you to more remarkable things to come.

Balance is everything.

2003-12-05T11:08:00.000-05:00

UZ17

"UZ17" is the designation of our group leaving in January. We are the 17th group of Peace Corps volunteers being sent into Uzbekistan since inception in 1992, and the 4th to be sent after the program was reinstated following the pull-out in 2001.

The Uzbekistan Desk Officer in D.C. told me today that we are a group of 50+, 18 of whom are NGO Development volunteers like myself. I've been able to connect with 7 from the group so far. We found each other either through the peacecorps2 Yahoo! group, or they found this blog or my Peace Corps blog through search engines. It amazes me to think how these 50 people and our experiences together over the coming two years will affect my life forever. And how I will impact theirs, never mind the reciprocol impact on lives of the Uzbek people we will encounter.

In the mean time, its snowing like mad here, the heavy white flakes already forming the negative image outlines of all the trees. This black and white world is magically timeless!

2003-12-04T17:52:00.000-05:00

Informed and Balanced

And thank you, Nathan, for providing experienced and reassuring views on the threat of terrorism in Uzbekistan...

"...the average Uzbek likes and respects the United States...If the Uzbeks ever rise up against their leaders, don't expect them to declare the US enemy number one or to build a particularly religious state...

Fundamentalism is at the fringes of Uzbek society, and we have the Soviets to thank for thoroughly secularizing Central Asians who are now genuinely secular..."

We can now get to the task of how to help vs. who to blame.

2003-12-04T17:50:00.000-05:00

6 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

Actually, it was six weeks on Tuesday, but I can't seem to catch up with these passing days and end up posting this count-down a few days late. I always feel like I've got a train to catch!

I've even been a few weeks late completing the last remaining administrative requirement for the Peace Corps, which was sending in my "Aspiration Statement" and updated resume. The statement outlined my expectations of Peace Corps service as an NGO Development volunteer, my personal and professional goals, and my strategy for adapting to a new culture. It is meant to help the country officers, in D.C. and in Uz, match me with the right project as well as devise the appropriate training program in light of my overall experience. As hard as I try, I really have no expectations, or rather very low ones, given the fact that civil society is a very nascent concept in Uz and the program is just getting started there. Without much precedence, I imagine working more closely with the Peace Corps in its design and implementation to get things off the ground than actually accomplishing a whole lot with the local NGOs. But I didn't say that, of course. I mostly talked about the skills I expect to transfer to my local counterparts and how adept I am at cultural adjustment.

I also have a Homestay questionnaire to fill out, which is not a big deal since I'm flexible with smoking, drinking, and eating meat (except lamb). So it will come down to not being placed in a family without cats due to my cat allergy. Otherwise, its a toss of the dice where and who I live with. *fingers crossed*

2003-11-30T14:18:00.000-05:00

7 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

These weeks go by fast, huh? Almost too fast. I'm wilting a little...

...under the weight of all the sorting, packing, moving, etc. Most of all, the emotional juggling is becoming more and more precarious. How am I supposed to balance the joy of what I have in my life here while preparing to leave it all? Thanksgiving was wonderful in all its hectic madness and undeniable familial bonds.

How can I be excited for my new endeavors in the face of possible dangers and discomforts? What IS going on in Turkey? How WILL it effect my safety in Central Asia, if at all? What does being AMERICAN mean to Muslim people, or everyone for that matter, in light of all the madness in the world? When neutral, peaceful aid workers are targetted, threatened, and attacked, all logic seems lost:

Maoist Fiat Forces Peace Corps Out
Rupandehi, November 18

Thirty American Peace Corps volunteers have been forced to leave the district following an ultimatum by an armed group of Maoists asking them to leave within six days.

The volunteers were running a temporary Peace Corps office at the Butwal Technical Institute (BIT), of the United Mission to Nepal, in Manigram VDC. It is said that the ultimatum was issued keeping in view Prachanda's hostile attitude towards the Americans.

The volunteers left for Narayangadh with no intention of returning.

The owner of a house where nearly a dozen volunteers had put up said the Americans had come to Butwal two and a half months ago and planned to stay for around two years.

The volunteers, who could communicate in Nepali, were studying the language in Manigram VDC-2 and 4. They also used to provide financial and technical assistance to the Aama groups.

Earlier there were 36 volunteers but of late only 30 of them had been staying including some women.

They used to visit Butwal, Shankarnagar, Kariya regularly and were planning to visit Pokhara, Siraha and Bara.

Commenting on the incident, SP Dhak Bahadur Karki of District Police Office said, “Though we had heard about the volunteers being asked to leave by the Maoists we have no idea whether they left due to the same reason.” He said the police might be able to gather more information when a team would visit the area soon.

Accepting that the volunteers had left the VDC, the manager of BTC, Bishnu Hari Devkota, said, “We did not ask them the reason for leaving and they did not tell us.”

According to him some remaining Nepali staff were also planning to leave the place tomorrow.

@ The Himalayan Times

Oh yeah, I think I'm scheduled to leave two days sooner than I thought, on the 13th instead of the 15th of January. I'm noticing how two measely days are hitting me so hard, and makes 760 days of service seem like all eternity.

2003-11-20T17:12:00.000-05:00

8 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

Eight weeks and I'm starting to learn Russian.

(Who would have thought?)

...and I just received news that someone will sublet my apartment as of December 1st, which means that I will be moving into Rich's house for my final 7 weeks. Still to sell my car but I'm not quite ready to give it up until closer to my departure date. Since those two things are the biggest financial commitments to handle, I feel I'm almost there.

My attempts to temper my packing list by striking off unnessary items are countered by a growing wish list of new necessitities. *sigh* Its that bad consumerism bug that hits me every time I find something that will make my life easier, or things that I can justify by size and weight that make my life luxurious.

(Can a 100 pound girl even carry a 100 pounds?)

2003-11-18T00:00:00.000-05:00

Central Asia NGO Network

Here is another resource on NGO work in Central Asia. Cango.net is a site of the Central Asia NGO Network. Here you can find the latest news and activities related to NGO activities in the region.

2003-11-15T21:56:00.000-05:00

IREX

In addition to Counterpart International (see below), I found another organization doing NGO development work in Uz. IREX has been a leader in international exchange for nearly 40 years. Their current programs in Uz are quite extensive, including university exchanges for Uzbek students to attend American universities, internships for Uzbek business leaders in American firms, building up internet resources and training for professionals, setting up public advocacy groups as well as beefing up the legal environment for NGO’s to operate...just to name a few.

I get excited when I find dedicated people doing things that need doing in the world to make it, if not a happier, then at least a more manageable place. It certainly helps to counter some things that we do wrong.

2003-11-15T00:00:00.000-05:00

9 Weeks 'Til Uzbekistan!!!

Nervous anticipation has quietly turned into conscientious preparation for my January 15th departure. I feel quite comfortable now, relaxed and as prepared as I could ever be for life in Uz. After all the advice and support from people in virtually every corner of the world, including my family and friends, I feel ready.

My last assignment for Peace Corps prior to departure is to write a statement of goals and expectations. It is suppose to reflect my motivation to commit to a two year assignment and will help the Peace Corps staff assess my expectations of service. I intend to focus on my assignment as an NGO Development volunteer. After reading the announcement, as well as the description of my assignment, I felt that the goals were noble but lofty, and seemed nebulous at first glance. So I’ve been doing some research on organizations that specialize in this line of work and came across Counterpart International. They have been leaders in the area of helping to build civil societies in newly independent nations for almost 40 years. I really admire their work because they train and build up the local capacity of the community to run their own organizations, rather than sending foreign “experts” to advise on the what, how, and when, of the communities’ needs. They do partner with the Peace Corps and I hope I will cross paths with them during my assignment.

So I’m quite at peace now and sleeping regularly (finally), coasting my way into the holidays…

2003-11-13T09:59:00.000-05:00

ITS OFFICIAL

I received this announcement from the World Bank’s Knowledge Management Office for Uzbekistan:

US Peace Corps is launching a new NGO Development Program in Uzbekistan.

The overarching purpose of the NGO Development Program is to provide technical assistance to local NGOs throughout Uzbekistan in order to increase the quality and effectiveness of NGO services, in the areas of health, education, youth development, environment, water and sanitation, human rights and small business advising, to name a few. By increasing the effectiveness of NGO services, individuals, communities and the larger population of Uzbekistan will have more opportunities to increase their personal and financial well being and live a more economically secure and healthy lifestyle. For more information, please contact:

Akmal Rustamov, NGO Development Program Manager, US Peace Corps/Uzbekistan Tel/Fax: 1207390, 1207392
E-mail: arustamov@uz.peacecorps.gov
www.peacecorps.gov

Note: This was announced last week, and the program is also being developed for Kazakhstan and the Kyrgyz Republic as well.

2003-11-12T18:01:00.000-05:00

SNAIL MAIL

I emailed all of my family and friends today, to update snail mail addresses. It amazes me how much we rely on electronic devices that we’ve lost the art of letter writing, sending thank you notes, birthday cards, etc.

Well, since internet service might be sketchy in Uz, we will have to start licking stamps again to stay in touch. So if you’d like to receive mail from "the-middle-of-now-where-is-it-stan" PLEASE give me your home address, and your birthday, too, while you’re at it.

My address in Uz for the first three months from Jan. 15 - April 15 will be:

Uzbekistan, 700015 Tashkent
4 Turkestanskaya Street
c/o "Halqaro Pochtamt"
Attn: DEE WARREN

The mail takes 3-6 weeks, so if you're inclined to stick a postcard or letter in the post now, I will be delighted to receive it when I get to Tashkent ;D

2003-11-06T23:30:00.000-05:00

AS DREAMS FORETELL...

Last night I had a dream that it was my last day before leaving for Uz. But in my dream, I was already there. Rich was there with me in my dream, comforting and warm. So was my mother, nervously looking for something she thought I needed. The only thing I remember visually about the dream was entering a cement block shower the size of two high school lockers, and upon noticing the hole in the ground that served as both the toilet and shower drain, I wondered if it was culturally acceptable to pee in the showerâ€¦

(Help me here, Freud!)

2003-11-02T20:00:00.000-05:00

10 WEEKS 'TIL UZBEKISTAN!!!

A countdown from 10 always seems so imminent, doesn't it?

My packing list grows and grows...

Answers to my questions produce more questions...

Excitement has turned into apprehension...

But my will has hardened my resolve, and I remain committed to 27 months in Uzbekistan.

2003-10-31T19:36:00.000-05:00

BACK ON TRACK

For two weeks now I have been nursing tethered nerves over my application for a Peace Corps passport. (During my term of service, I am required to use this passport in place of my normal one.) A slight SNAFU on my part two weeks ago could have resulted in an eight week delay, which would have jeopardized my departure for Uz on the 15th of January. This would have forfeited my Uz assignment, and thrown me straight back into the pool of candidates to await another country assignment and departure date. It would have meant a few more months of nervous anticipation, the likes of which I had already endured from May until October. That was way more than enough pain for the pleasure. My nails are desperately trying to grow back from the obsessive gnawing.

In the end, I found out yesterday that everything is in progress for my passport, and the path is once again cleared for me to depart as scheduled.

Whew!

2003-10-28T00:04:00.000-05:00

EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT CENTRAL ASIAN HISTORY

Since 1966, UNESCO has been working on a project to present a comprehensive picture of the cultures of the Eurasian continent from the dawn of civilization to the present day. So far, the multi-volume History of Civilizations of Central Asia has produced five volumes. It’s fifth volume (of most interest to me), ”Development in Contrast: From the Sixteenth to the Mid-Nineteenth Century” was recently launched in Paris.

“This volume continues the history of Central Asian civilizations from c. 1500 to c. 1850, a period which saw the last medieval empires, notably the Uzbeks, Safavids, Mughals and Dzungars, and witnessed the early impact of colonialism. Like the preceding volumes, the present one also deals with all the diverse elements of culture. It describes the last phase of nomadism as a viable system of social organization; the effects on Central Asian economies of the shift of the main lines of international trade from the Great Silk Route to the oceanic routes; the various schools of art; the last great age of classical Persian literature and the growth of Turkic literatures; and, finally, in the religious sphere, the Shi`ite triumph in Persia, the conversion of the Mongol peoples to Buddhism, and the rise of Sikhism. It also analyses the problem of the lag in Central Asian scientific and technological development in relation to Europe and the nature of early colonialism – notably British and Russian – in Central Asia. The conclusion sums up the main trends in Central Asian history from the sixteenth to the mid-nineteenth century.”

I have been looking for sources that explain the cultural transformation of nomadic people into the varied modern state society that exist in the region today. What is it that forms allegiance to statehood where one did not exist before?…and I am hoping that it will not have been the coercive force of a militarized foreign imperialist regime that bludgeoned its citizens into submission and decimated their traditional culture and religion.

Am I being too hopeful here? Let’s find out after I read the 934 pages.

2003-10-26T10:58:00.000-05:00

DAYS LIKE TODAY

Some days I don’t want to go away, like today. Some days my life is simply satisfied by being among loved ones, by going about my pleasant routines, and by enjoying the peaceful environment of my town.

The challenges seem too daunting on days like today. The risks seem unwise. The sacrifices seem intolerable. The possible regrets seem unforgiving.

For two years, I will leave a mother to suffering and a man to solitude. My mother is too old to wish for time to pass by quickly. My companion loves me too much to let me go, yet he loves me too much to ask me to stay. I love them both too much to leave behind. And they are not the only ones…whose heart will wither.

On days like today, my pursuit seems to be a selfish endeavor rather than a selfless act, and I do not know how to make peace with myself in the dichotomy of my world.

2003-10-22T21:27:00.000-04:00

UZ GENERAL ADVICE

Following on her packing advice in the post below, the Uz RPCV also has this to say about what to expect as a volunteer in Uzbekistan.

What to expect:

Be prepared to live in a fishbowl, unless you are in the capital, which will take some pressure off of you.

Don’t ever go out at night alone. Go out in groups…and make sure, especially in the winter, that you are not working/teaching past the time when it gets dark.

Get used to long lines (if you’re lucky enough to find a line) and buses, trains, etc. that don’t leave on time. Also, get used to giving and receiving a broad range of times to meet up with friends in different cities. Since buses are not as reliable, anything can happen and delays of a few hours are very common. We were late for a Christmas party by 5 hours and had to push the bus at three different points in the freezing cold and very dense fog. By the way, if you are in the Ferghana Valley, the fog there can be pretty nasty, so keep this in mind when traveling to and from there (ESPECIALLY by air).

Corruption is getting better for the volunteers. I was lucky enough to never have to bribe a conductor (to keep my coupe, seat, etc.), police officer, or checkpoint guard, but it still happens.

Be prepared to feel a LOT of pressure to drink. There are several ways to approach this: never drink in the presence of non-Americans (or people who are not your closest friends). Once you start drinking, you WILL be expected to finish the bottle or keep doing shots well beyond what you are comfortable with. And you can’t stop once you start (trust me!). Unfortunately, there is no middle ground. You may also say that you are allergic (“Men da allergy bor”, in Uzbek, or “U menya allergy yest”, in Russian). You may also play the woman or religious “card” and say that it is not acceptable in your community/church. Some people respect this, but many will keep pressuring you anyway. Be prepared to defend yourself and hold your ground! If you find yourself in a situation where you absolutely do not want to drink, but don’t want to be offensive, work on being able to throw the shot behind your back, while pretending that you drank it. This sounds very silly, but I had to do it a few times…eventually they stop noticing, the more vodka that is being drunk. By the way, if anyone offers you “samogan”, this is homemade beer or vodka. DO NOT DRINK it! You can get very very sick….my husband was incredibly sick for two days after doing this. Homemade wine, however, is perfectly fine to drink. You guys will discover your own stuff that you like, but highly recommended is “Baltika”, which is an excellent Russian beer, found almost anywhere.

Don’t even pay a social call without a gift. Candy, a bottle of champagne (if you are prepared to drink a lot, including vodka, which is ALL you will be drinking), flowers, or nan. If you are bringing flowers or nan (bread), make SURE it is an odd number, since even numbers are for sad occasions, such as funerals.

For weddings, birthdays, it is more appropriate to wear colorful clothes. My host families where always disappointed when they saw me in mostly black, even if they were nice clothes.

2003-10-22T21:26:00.000-04:00

UZ PACKING ADVICE

A very, VERY nice RPCV who was in Uzbekistan in the mid-1990's, has been giving me a lot of great advice, even in the middle of her graduate school mid-terms. Here's what she has to say about packing:

1. Dark clothes: they show the dirt less…most of us washed our clothes by hand, so dark clothes also help hide the wear and tear on your clothes.

2. Bring two nice outfits—you won’t have to wear them all of the time, but there will be some occasions for which you may want to wear them.

3. Take WARM clothes—even in the capital, it will be normal to have unheated buildings in the winter. If you are going to be teaching, bring gloves with the fingers cut out so that you can write on the chalkboard. In my school, not only did we not have heat, but many of the windows had broken glass (no money to repair them), so the wind came through the classroom as well. Most of the time in the winter, I taught in my long coat and gloves. Also, bring a full length warm coat.

4. DON’T SKIMP ON SHOES!!!! If you make a major investment for your trip, this is the one to make. Bring several pairs of comfortable shoes for winter and summer (and sneakers!). If you are having shoes shipped to you from the States, have ONE of the shoes shipped at a time. Things are getting MUCH better in terms of officials not going through your packages and taking items, BUT it still happens and shoes are a hot commodity due to the quality and expense of shoes there.

5. Bring one or two pairs of shorts for traveling or working out in a gym in the capital (if you have the opportunity). Even though I lived with conservative host families, females wore shorts around the house in the summer. This is completely, if you don’t have a host brother.

6. Swiss Army knife

7. A supply of U.S. stamps. There will be a box in the Peace Corps office for letters to be hand carried by anyone going back to the States. There is someone (either volunteer or staff member) going to the States at least twice a month, and they are usually good about taking the mail with them to mail.

8. Bring lots of pictures (that you don’t mind giving away or getting bent) to show your host families and friends. It’s a GREAT ice breaker, when you first get there and may be dealing with language barriers. Also, they love to see what your life is like in the U.S. This may sound strange, but take/bring pictures of things that you may think are mundane, such as a picture or your car, your house, the grocery store, your high school, college, etc. People love to see all aspects of your life in the U.S. And take pictures from various stages/events in your life, as well. American magazines are also a nice ice breaker (and “gift”) for host siblings who are younger.

9. If you will be teaching (either at camps or training sessions), bring some American chalk. The chalk there is very difficult to use and of poor quality. Perhaps in the capital you will be able to find better chalk, but it’s easier to bring your own (white and colored).

10. If you think it will be relevant to your job, start doing research now on companies/organization that have book donation programs. It is very likely that your school or organization will be interested in receiving English textbooks. If you are working at an English resource center in your spare time, which is quite likely, this will help out greatly with their collections. One that I can think of off the top of my head was Darien Books. I THINK ACTR-ACCELS does this as well.

11. Since you will most likely be organizing a camp of some kind (sports, girls’ leadership, teaching methodology, NGO organizational training, etc.), start thinking now about possible donors (of either material or money) for them. Bring a database of addresses and contact information (snail AND e-mail) with you, so that you can write to them when you start your planning.

12. Other supplies that are available, but of poor quality and may be difficult to find are Scotch tape, packaging tape, DUCT tape—very very impt for repairing just about anything!, tons of film, batteries—best to bring rechargeable if possible, you feel less guilty and there is no proper way to throw them out there, so you either bring back used batteries or use the rechargeable kind, and general office supplies.

13. Of course, bring a camera. If you have a digital, bring it, but also bring a less expensive one so that when you are in more public places, you don’t draw even more attention to yourself.

14. The Lonely Planet guidebook—this was invaluable when I was traveling around the country to visit friends.

15. Peace corps will provide you with dictionaries, but if you are looking for a very good Russian dictionary (should you choose to learn both languages), I suggest the Kenneth Katzner one. It’s a large red dictionary in paperback and is the best source I have found for Russian. It’s about $30 and is available commercially.

16. Bring plenty of little gifts—lotions, perfumes, nice gloves/scarves make great gifts for women. For men (host fathers, brothers, etc.), aftershave, razors (sounds strange, I know), blank tape cassettes (the quality of tapes there is not so good), and nice, thick dress socks are good. For children, balloons, pencils, stickers, markers, coloring books, picture books are great as small gifts. Also, a GREAT gift for when you arrive would be a nice coffee table book from the U.S. Either a book on the city in which you live/were born in or the (I think it’s either TIME or National Geographic) “Day in the Life of the United States” coffee table book, which is GREAT to show them the range and diversity of the U.S. and the family dynamics here. Host mothers LOVED to receive cookware or tools for the kitchen (like vegetable peelers, nice bowls). Of course, they have cookware there, but for smaller things, they enjoy using the higher quality stuff.

17. Bring a cookbook for yourself. Peace Corps also has a great one that the Uzbekistan PCVs put together for recipes specifically designed seasonally (i.e. what is in the bazaars). Also, bring vegetable peelers for yourself, if and when you move out to be on your own. They are MUCH safer and easier than what is there. Then again, I learned (after many cuts) to just use a knife for peeling, which you may prefer. Oh! Also bring your favorite spices—cinnamon, basil, oregano are particularly difficult to find. Also, bring a salt/pepper and vegetable spices mix…the salt they have there usually comes in a lump and you have to dissolve, which creates large chunks. It’s a bit frustrating at first. If you plan to do any baking, corn syrup or vanilla extract are essential!

18. Bring a small and larger flashlight, such as a maglite. This absolutely necessary when you live with a host family in a village or visit friends/participate in camps. You will need it for using the pit toilet outside in the evenings, in case the power goes off, which is quite often, etc. Also, there is poor lighting (except in the capital) in general at night, so if you are out at night with friends, it can be very useful.

19. Bring the world almanac as a reference book or as a gift to English-speaking friends. It is particular useful, if you end up teaching, for random facts.

20. Bring your favorite music—don’t skimp on this either, if you enjoy music. You will most certainly get into the music there and enjoy it, but it’s nice to bring some stuff from home.

21. Bring an overnight backpack/bag, since you’ll be visiting friends a lot and taking many many small trips during your time there.

22. Bring plenty of pads/tampons…they are expensive there and may not be of the same brand/style that you are used to Peace Corps supplies some, but they are usually the very bulky kind, so bring what you are used to.

23. Bring a head scarf. You will be able to find plenty there, but just in case you need one when you first arrive, it’s good to have one. In general, you will not have to wear one, but when you visit friends in villages, or go to the old part of Tashkent (to the bazaar, to visit friends), you should wear one.

24. Bring mostly long skirts and pants and very few (if any) sleeveless shirts. Even in the summer, I ran in jogging pants. Even though you may be in the capital or a larger city, you will be in enough of a fishbowl, so it’s better to dress as modestly as possible.

25. Bring plenty of toiletries. They are of course available in Tashkent and elsewhere, but will be expensive on your PC salary.

26. If you wear contacts, it’s best to go with glasses for the two years. It’s annoying, but contact solution is difficult to find there. Also, it’s quite dry and dusty, so they will get irritated. Bring two pairs of back ups just in case your original pair breaks.

27. Bring some of your favorite food for when you first get there or ship it to yourself before you leave.

2003-10-16T13:52:00.000-04:00

ENCOURAGEMENT AND INSPIRATION

Support for female Peace Corps applicants flourished in our discussion group as a result of the Jane Magazine article I referred to in the previous post. They came from men as well as women. We may have been sleepless, but we were definitely united!

"Courage is not the absence of Fear, but having fear and doing it anyway."

"It is a far, far better thing I do than I have ever done...
It is a far, far better place I go than I have ever been." -- Charles Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities

IF -- Rudyard Kipling

If you can keep your head when all about you
Are losing theirs and blaming it on you,
If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you
But make allowance for their doubting too,
If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,
Or being lied about, don't deal in lies,
Or being hated, don't give way to hating,
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise:

If you can dream--and not make dreams your master,
If you can think--and not make thoughts your aim;
If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same;
If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken
Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,
Or watch the things you gave your life to, broken,
And stoop and build 'em up with worn-out tools:

If you can make one heap of all your winnings
And risk it all on one turn of pitch-and-toss,
And lose, and start again at your beginnings
And never breath a word about your loss;
If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on!"

If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue,
Or walk with kings--nor lose the common touch,
If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you;
If all men count with you, but none too much,
If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds' worth of distance run,
Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,
And--which is more--you'll be a Man, my son!

2003-10-16T13:48:00.000-04:00

GREEN CURRY AND PEACE CORPS SAFETY

Can't sleep again. My house smells like green curry. My stomach is growling, mouth's watering, and it’s not the usual deep sleep drool either. Oh, how I wish...

It may be due to the spate of of discussions in the Peace Corps discussion group about volunteer safety. The October issue of Jane Magazine has a less than balanced article about the incidence of sexual assault, rape, and sickness among female Peace Corps volunteers. Yeah, I know, highly reputable and worthy reading, right? It's shoddy, biased reporting, but it got sent around to the discussion group and is scaring half the women applicants to death about serving. Family members of applicants and volunteers get a hold of this stuff and (rightfully) go off the deep end. Granted, there are significant dangers when going into war-torn, poverty-stricken regions of the world. And we should not, and for the most part, do not take the potential risk for granted when we apply. We are smart, young (save myself), adults, and not the naïve, helpless nymphs the article portrays female volunteers.

Indeed, the Peace Corps can be more responsive in mitigating risks, but no one can guarantee absolute safety in most of the locations where Peace Corps volunteers go. Women are harassed in the First World countries just as much as in the Third World. Physical assaults hidden behind closed doors and muffled by social stigma occur in our very own neighborhoods.

As for illnesses and tummy aches, I used to get sick every time I went to Bali on a 5-Star holiday, as well as on safari in Namibia. It’s the nature of the microscopic beasts! Everyone has to use his or her own judgment about these things and practice what they have been taught by the Peace Corps. It is the way of life, being a stranger to new organisms.

A returned volunteer who served in Cameroon said it best in her response to the article, "...Peace Corps Volunteers don't serve in Epcot Disneyworld". Oh, how I wish…

Now, where’s that curry?

2003-10-16T12:40:00.000-04:00

MY ASSIGNMENT

I received my assignment kit from headquarters, which describes in detail the nature of my assignment as an NGO Development volunteer:

The Need
"...the need for NGOs to be bettere managed, more financially sound, and have a well-developed, thought-out strategic plan.

...many NGOs face similar problems, such as: limited funding sources due to lack of knowledge about fundraising; lack of trained staff; limited understanding about the rules and regulations that govern the organization; limited English capability; and lack of organizational management skills."

My Mandate
"...focus on organizational development, strategic planning, fundraising, and general counseling.

...long-term sustainability of change and reform, increase public participation in community life, and democratization of the decision-making process.

...teach language and communication skills to both [my] colleagues and others."

Potential Projects
"...establishing office and management systems; developing training programs; project development and implementation; community outreach; resource allocation and management; computer skills training; building partnerships with other organizations; conducting and analyzing a community needs assessment; and building the overall capacity within the NGO."

The Goal
"...increased ability and skill level among local NGO staff to reach out to the communities they serve in a way that results in increased opportunities for communities to prosper.

1. Strengthen local NGO capacity.
2. Develop an outreach program that will assist the NGOs to be better connected to their communities.
3. Establish and NGO network to exchange ideas and best practices and maximize resources so that NGOs can assist their communities more effectively and efficiently."

Keep in mind this is the first NGO Development program that Peace Corps is implementing in Uzbekistan. These are noble, but lofty goals, particularly when corruption is a way of living and survival, not only for government officials and businessmen, but also for the people in general. This makes it very difficult to create a civil society that is willing to put their time and resources towards a greater good.

You think I'll have any hair left when I'm through?

2003-10-16T12:23:00.000-04:00

WISH LIST

I hope all of you will refer back to this list when I'm out in the field. I'm sure it will dwindle down to more humble necessities like soft toilet paper and $1 bills ;)

Amazon Wish List

iPod

Not an absolute necessity, but just plain nifty. Will save me from bringing sleaves of CD's.

Apple Pro Speakers

The sound from my PowerBook is actually not that bad if I'm sitting at or near it. But its difficult to hear DVDs clearly. This will help make drabby Soviet-style block apartments feel more like home.

iPod Media Reader

Boy am I greedy!

Laptrap

How can you not buy one of the best designed products ever?

PacSafe Security System

This is probably the most essential. I imagine using it to lock up my valuables inside my home, too.

i-Zone Pocket Polaroid Camera

A sure way to make friends, break the ice, and a handy present when I show up empty handed. Of course, I'll need the Pocket Film, too. The Pocket Sticker Film would be great for kids!

2003-10-16T12:19:00.000-04:00

UZ PACKING

Obviously, this will be culled as the priority items get weighed in, but for now...it grows and grows and grows...all to fit into two maximum 50lb. bags!

Bags

- Large backpack, inside a large duffle
- Duffle wheely
- Day pack
- Book bag
- Tote bag
- Small sling bag
- Fannie pack
- Camera case
- Computer bag
- Luggage locks: key and combo
- PacSafe security system

Outerware/Warmth

- winter jacket
- scarf, gloves, hat
- rain jacket
- fleece
- fleece vest
- thermals (2)
- sweater jacket

Work Clothes

- long skirts (3 summer, 3 winter)
- trousers
- blouses (2)
- light jacket
- turtlenecks (3)
- sweaters (2)
- tights: black, brown (3)
- earrings, watch

Home/Leisure Clothes

- sweat pants
- sweat shirt
- pajamas
- t-shirts/tank tops (4)
- underwear, bras (lots)
- socks: black, brown, sports (8)
- jeans
- shirts
- capris (2)
- swimsuit
- sarongs

Shoes

- hiking boots
- leather boots
- dress shoes
- dress sandles
- sneakers
- tevas
- flip flops

Trekking Equipment

- hiking pants
- shorts
- shirts (2)
- bandana
- gators
- gortex jacket
- liner socks (2)
- regular socks (2)
- sleeping bag
- sleeping pad
- Nalgene bottles (2)
- sunglasses
- baseball caps

Toiletries/Medicine (supplemental to Med Kit)

- toothbrush
- toothpaste
- dental floss
- lip balm
- soap
- bath sponge/loofa
- facial cleanser
- facial moisturizer
- body moisturizer
- deoderant
- shampoo
- conditioner
- towel
- soad dish
- toilet paper
- feminine...you know (6 mos.)
- Vagisil (cream and suppositories)
- razor and refill blades
- scissors
- tweezers
- nail clippers
- nail file
- callous file
- hair brush
- scrunchies, clips
- ear plugs
- eye mask
- make up
- sunblock
- Tylanol: regular, colds
- Aleve
- Pepto Bismol
- Claritin
- Vitamins
- Iron supplement
- Ground Psyllium
- Moleskin
- Sewing kit
- Safety pins

Geek/Tech List

- PowerBook
- External Hard Drive (250G)
- External Floppy Disc Drive
- Floppy Discs (CD's???)
- iPOD
- mini-speakers
- Nikon F55
- Film
- Lead film bag
- Fuji FinePix
- Smart Media Memory Cards
- Smart Media Reader
- i-Zone polaroid camera
- Pocket Film, regular & stickers
- Shortwave radio
- Converter and adapters
- Power surge protector
- Rechargeable batteries
- Swiss Army Knife/Leatherman
- Maglite
- Headlamp

Books/Documents

- Family/Friends Album
- Passport/Immunization Card/Driver's license
- Banking
- Insurance
- Contacts
- Journals
- Books
- Index cards
- Atlas, maps
- English dictionary, thesaurus

$$$$

- $300 cash in $10, $5, $1's
- Credit Cards
- Debit Cards

Gifts/Games

- wall calendars
- NYC souvenirs
- postcards
- jewelry
- scarfs
- ziplock bags
- sponges (bath/kitchen)
- crayons
- balls
- baseball cards
- UNO
- backgammon
- scrabble
- globe (inflatable)
- magic tricks
- coffee
- chocolate

Food (to be mailed)

- fish sauce
- Thai jasmine rice
- olive oil
- curry paste
- coconut milk
- oatmeal
- soy milk
- powdered drink mix
- pepermint tea
- hot chocolate mix
- red wine

Household

- sheets (2 sets of top sheets)
- pillow
- rubber cleaning gloves
- bug spray
- tupperware
- duct tape
- puddy/blue tack
- cooking utensils

Am I forgetting something?...What would YOU bring for two years and living on less than $100 a month?

2003-10-16T12:12:00.000-04:00

UZ QUESTIONS

The following questions have been answered by Uz PVCs, RPVCs or someone experienced with living in the region. Most recent questions are posted on the bottom of the list.

1. Is it better to live with a family or in own apt? I'm older and not used to living with other people.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both. I really won't know what I will prefer until I get there.

2. Does the PC restrict/discourage subsidizing housing out of own pocket? If I get my own apt.

The PC currently financially encourages PCVs to live with host families. We PCVs that live in cities and on our own are trying to get them to change this and they probably will by the time you go to site. Unless you are in a village, you can definitely get an apartment.

I'm 34 and fresh out of corporate life so I use my own money for many things to make life here a little easier. You don't need to but, if you can, treating yourself is more than possible. The only thing with that is to be culturally sensitive to where you are dropping money. Many host country nationals (HCNs - do you know you are about to be plunged into acronym hell?) assume that all Americans are rich. In order to not get constantly ripped off and hit up for money, it's probably best to act like you have no money. As it is, we get paid at about 3x what the average monthly salary is. That doesn't make it as easy to live as you would think because most people don't live on their own here and it costs more. You can live slightly better than a local on PC salary.

There are no rules against spending your own money for something. I think there may be something about buying property - but that would be tough anyway. The other thing - what is in PC policy or even what is encouraged is not really enforceable at site. You can do your own thing.

Finding a livable apartment that you can stay in for a long time may be hard. I've had to move 4 times in a year. People here aren't used to renting out apartments so some things that come up may be a problem - the owners may keep stuff in your apartment that they want to come get access to often. Or, they may sell the apartment causing you to move with little notice. When you get assigned to site, other PCVs and your counterpart will be able to help you figure out what you need to do in your particular site.

3. What is in the medical kit PC hands out? So I don't duplicate my med kit.

- ace bandages
- adhesive tape
- First Aid & Safety Handbook
- antacid tablets (Tums)
- antibiotic oitment (Bacitracin/Neomycin/Polymycin B)
- antiseptic antimicrobial skin cleaner (Hibiclens)
- band-aids
- butterfly closures
- calamine lotion
- cepacol lozenges
- condoms
- dental floss
- Benadryl
- insect repellent stick (Cutter's)
- water purification tablets
- lip balm
- oral rehydration salts and Gatorade
- oral thermometer
- Sudafed
- Robitussin lozenges
- scissors
- sterile gauze pads
- Visine
- antifungal cream (Tinactiin)
- tweezers

4. Should I bring any kitchen supplies?

I can't think of anything that wouldn't be available in at least Tashkent. I'm in the PCV lounge now and am asking others what they can think of - can openers - just the hand crank type. After a lot of looking, I found a garlic press in Ferghana. I brought a coffee press but you can buy them in Tashkent. I bought a coffee bean grinder in Navoi. (The coffee itself is the hardest to get here - I have friends send me coffee from the U.S.) I've seen juicers, microwaves, blenders and other appliances. Basic kitchen tools are around everywhere.

5. Are there any restrictions on bringing in certain foods? My mother wants me to bring fish sauce.

I don't know of any food restrictions.

All boxes shipped to the PC adress in Tashkent are opened and inspected at the U.S. Embassy. Some of my boxes to site have been opened - strangely, it seems that they've been opened in Moscow for some reason. Even the food boxes inside were opened - down to where they were individually packaged. a few things were missing after the boxes were opened. Most packages get to me unopened.

6. How are the supply of books at Headquarters? I plan to send a box.

There is a pretty good supply of books at the office and being passed around by PCVs. Those of us that are book junkies have shipped books by m-bag. One PCV I know even orders from Amazon. You will do A LOT of reading here. Bring the things you've always wanted to read but didn't have time.

7. If I want to go camping, should I bring my own tent? For getaway weekends in the mountains.

If you have space, bring the tent. You can arrange treks that include equipment but it's also nice to go off on your own. I think a sleeping bag is a must - for camping, sleepovers and cold winter nights when there is no heat. (Not normal in cities but definitely frequent in villages.) I also brought one of those hostel sheet sleeping bags that I found useful in the summer.

8. What kind of things make the best gifts?

Wall calendars, pens, matchbox, jewelry, postcards, American souvenirs. Quantity matters more than quality.

9. What kind of learning games or fun games should I bring?

It's nice to have games you can play when you are getting to know your host family - during and after training. Some games that I've seen work well without understanding the same language are Uno and Skip Bo - which is like Uno.

Someone suggested magic tricks for the kids.

10. What can I bring for other volunteers and PC staff?

People have a pretty regular network of having stuff mailed. Also, now that there are a lot of us here, someone is usually going home for a visit soon and we give them requests. Maybe current newspapers. The staff might like a few entertainment magazines. This really isn't necessary though.

11. Should I start learning Russian now? Will I need it for NGO Development?

Most of the PCVs learn Uzbek in training. I learned Russian because Navoi used to be more of a Russian city. Those of use that learned Russian are in Navoi, Tashkent, Nukus and a few sporadic towns where they are teaching in Russian schools. You can get all the language you need during the PC training and studying ahead of time isn't really necessary, but can't hurt of course. Also, if you are good at languages, learning both Uzbek and Russian is helpful. The Uzbek is better for interactions with HCNs. Russians is way more useful in the cities.

I don't know if they are planning to teach Russian to all NGO Dev PCVs but it makes sense.

12. I don't like lamb. Can I refuse lamb dishes politely?

Yes. Although you get over being a picky eater - mystery meat is pretty common. If you want to avoid something right out, it's easiest to claim medical reasons. You will be pushed and pressured by HCNs, but can definitely refuse and just accept your role as a "weird American".

Some PCVs even eat vegetarian for the most part. Although that usually just means the meat is picked out of whatever the dish is.

13. I can't drink that much. Can I refuse vodka shots politely?

I think I'll be able to manage this once I get there and get a sense of the norms and customs. Observe first, and then make the necessary declarations that is culturally sensitive as well as fitting with my constitution.

14. If I send myself a box, will it be difficult to get it from headquarters to the training site?

You'll have to cart it there yourself - via plane, train or automobile. But if you can carry it to the transportation, it's not a problem. You can also keep boxes or parts of boxes int he PCV lounge and bring things out to site when you can. Or, you can ask PC staff to bring it with them in a PC Land Cruiser when they are coming out - usually at least once every 2 months or so.

Airmail boxes can take 6 to 8 weeks. Surface mail boxes - 3 weeks to 4 months. It's really nice to get mail. Ask your family and friends to send stuff before you leave so it starts coming in during your training.

15. Looks like I'll need to be professionally dressed. Do you think I can still buy second-hand stuff from the US, or will it seem junky? I don't normally wear skirts so will have to buy some.

What you hear about dress is way more conservative that reality. I would think that most NGO volunteers will be placed in cities and you could definitely wear pants/slacks everyday as long as they were neat and clean. Think business casual. You would only need to wear skirts 100% of the time if you were in a small village. You could probably get away with bringing 1 or 2 conservative skirts for guesting at traditional Uzbek homes and be safe.

In the city of Navoi, I am oftened asked why I wear long skirts all the time. I dress more conservatively than most of the locals my age. But, as I said, city life is a little different. I sometimes wish I had nicer "party" clothes. You get sick of your clothes real quick. But, I also think luggage space is better spent on things other than clothes. You can buy clothes here - the quality isn't that great but you can get what you need. I also wish I brought a couple of more things that are "comfort" clothes for me. I miss my ratty old pair of demin overalls for just wearing around my apartment.

Second hand stuff would be totally fine. People here wear the same outfits for years and years without buying new outfits so things are pretty worn. A lot of the PCVs are outfitted from goodwill back home and it's fine.

Bring undershirts. Sweaters take up space in your luggage. I only brought 2. I wash them only once every few weeks (this is not gross here) but wash the undershirts instead. (The you don't smell funny.) People honestly wear the exact same thing for a week straight. The is convenient in winter when drying things on the outside line takes a few days.

16. I am SEAsian and will often be mistaken for an Uzbek. What are your views or experiences of other Asian volunteers and how they handle themselves?

17. I noticed that there are several Uz PCVs who have a web-site. Currently, there is a lot of controversy in DC about them. The policy seems to be up to the respective Country Director. What do you know of the Uz CD's views on PCV web-sites?

As far as controversy about pcvs and their websites, the people I've talked to including myself haven't heard of any controversy but maybe I'm just out of the loop.

18. Should I bring more than the required 20 passport photos?

The 20 passport photos is more than enough. I ended up having about 5 left over so I gave one to my first host family during training.

I don't know why they want 20 little pictures...it seems like a lot. They had everyone in my group hand them over right when we got off the plane so I have no idea how many are "left."

19. Should I bring a travel blow dryer to dry my hair in winter?

For me it's not that bad anymore since I chopped most of it off shortly after I arrived so I just towel dry it. There are blowdryers available to buy.

Uzbeks will be very concerned if you attempt to leave the house with wet hair. I wash mine at night so I don't have to wait for it to dry in the morning.

Don't like showering at night? Don't worry. You won't be doing it on a daily basis anymore. You get used to this quicker then you'd think.

20. How do you handle your winter woollen clothes which have to be dry-cleaned?

I didn't bring any. I'm not going to say not to bring them, just use your judgement and know that dry cleaners are few and far between here (been told that there are a couple in Tashkent).

21. Are there no chickens in Uz?

Yes there're chickens here to eat, just expensive and sometimes questionable (espically in summer when you know the chicken meat has been sitting out all day w/out refidgeration....but there are supermarkets
where you can buy it). Families may also have chickens that they will kill and eat.

22. Do the Peace Corps offices allow you to use their internet connection? I'm wondering if I can hook up my computer to it so I can use a web-cam with my family.

Peace Corps will not allow you to hook up your computer to their server. Opens up too many security risks.

23. If our care packages definitely get opened and there are changes for pilfering, what kinds of things should I NOT have sent to me?

I get my mail here at the office and all the packages have been opened but I haven't had anything taken. I have the people sending them make an invetory list which I double check when I get the package. The packages that come to the office are mainly opened by the embassy. There are stories though of stuff being taken. I just wouldn't have really expensive stuff sent, like a really nice camera, computer, etc. If you can't afford to lose it, don't send it is a good philosophy to keep in mind.

24. What is the current situation with Karimov being reportedly ill? Any update?

Karimov is not ill, it's a rumor that Uzbeks like to tell.

25. Have you felt the impact of increase in import taxes? Are there fewer goods on the shelves these days?

I believe the increase in import taxes happened right before my group came in Jan or right about the time we arrived. It's hard to say what the impact is because we don't make enough to really buy anything that would be affected. There's still plenty of applicances on the shelves from what I can tell. Things are a bit more expensive, for example, the cheapest blender is about 40,000 cym (1,000 cym roughly is equal to $1) and vcrs that are both PAL and NTSC (to play american videos) are around 100,000 cym. A problem that keeps happening is that the government likes to periodically close down the bazars where you can buy a lot of the stuff for cheaper than in the stores.

That happened during my training. Yes, we definitly saw the store shelves and bazaar stalls empty out. It didn't affect us too badly because in training you are heavily dependent on your host family for all your food and they just get what they need on the black market. It was no doubt a hardship for them however. And if it had happened while we are at our volunteer sites it might have been difficult. Things are back on the market now...except when we get those police raids...but prices go up all the time. Our living allowance is being re-evaluated to account for this. Volunteers still with host families (like me) seem to be okay on the current living allowance, but volunteers with apartments have to budget more carefully. I'm looking for an apartment now and that's one thing that is really pricey...people see I'm an American and jack up the price so they can deal with the higher food/clothing/gas prices.

25. Is it considered insensitive to give HCNs luxury gifts because they then have to live without it when it runs out? I'm thinking about things like the free samples of cosmetics we get here to give to women.

2003-10-04T08:45:00.000-04:00

CENTRAL ASIAN ASIANS

The single most amazing thing about today was seeing Asian faces, many Asian faces, at the annual meeting of the Central Eurasian Studies Society at Harvard University. They were faces at once familiar, but this time atypically strange and exotic to me. Being Asian myself, and having lived in Asia for the past eight years, Asian faces have become as ubiquitous to me as seeing Irish Americans. But these faces today were different. They were Central Asian faces...Turkmen, Uzbek, Kazaks... They spoke Russian with one another, not the usual whiny Cantonese, sing song Mandarin, quacky Thai, or staccato Japanese. Even though the Central Asian countries have been independent from Soviet rule for nearly thirteen years, the common thread of their linguistic culture remains. Russian is still the lingua franca among the Cenral Eurasians, from the Caspian Sea in the west, to Mongolia in the east, and from Siberia in the north, to Afghanistan in the south.

The Asians I met today were, in many ways, more like me than the Asians I knew in Asia. They were raised with the notion that they are (were) Russian, just as I had grown up as an American. My national allegiance is incongruent with my physical image as an American. And although you may want to argue that America is multi-ethnic, a "melting pot", I still grew up thinking I'd have a blond, blue-eyed, Gerber baby one day! I wonder if my Russian counterparts had the same identity crisis?

And it's not as if I have never met Asians of different cultural upbringing. I've met British-Asians, French-Asians, Dutch-Asians, but I was never impressed because I was accustomed to meeting the Asian diaspora. I, myself, had been transplanted from Thailand to America. There is nothing unique in that. But here is where the Central Asians are exotic to me. Theirs was not a diaspora culture. The Soviet regime took control of the region a little over 70 years ago. They became a conquered people, who lived under an imperial regime that had carved a new identity for them, including new habits, a new way of life, new values, etc. They were not formulated by a leadership in the guise of their own ethnic identity or culture. Soviet coersive power subjugated them to a national allegiance completely alien to their traditional, tribal, nomadic way of life.

Now that Central Asia is independent from the Soviet empire, they are in the process of carving out their own "nationhood", with all the inherent geo-political, economic, social and cultural adjustments. I will be committing myself to this region for the next two years in the Peace Corps. I don't only see it as a great opportunity, I welcome it as a privilege.

2003-10-01T06:44:00.000-04:00

IT'S HAPPENING...

Just got an email from the Peace Corps with my application status update:

Clearances required to become an Invitee:
DENTAL - Complete
LEGAL - Complete
MEDICAL - Complete
PLACEMENT - Complete

This is for real. I'm really going. I have felt at once insanely ecstatic, and the next moment estreme sobriety; from the idealism of what I want it to be, to the reality of how it WILL be. The struggle now, though, will be the packing and the good-byes.

2003-09-24T23:27:00.000-04:00

PEACE CORPS PATIENCE

So now is the time to practice "Peace Corps Patience," to throw myself to the wind of an altruistic ideal, the pursuit of which, should be my primary beacon through the application process. It is the time to relinquish any attachment to the destination of my heart's desire and give in to the vagaries of a possible sudden change in destination or departure date originally set at nomination. At this stage, I am waiting to be medically and legally cleared, but most of all, I am waiting for that precious call from my placement officer to lift me from under the weight of uncertainty and offer my assigned country of service.

Although this call might be a relief in theory, I'm bracing myself for the reality of the logistics and decisions that must follow in its wake: terminate my lease, find a tenant, pack up my furniture, store my furniture, sell my car, terminate my insurance, change my address on everything, and deliberate on hundreds of minute considerations about what to bring...Too much? Too technical? Too formal? Too casual? Too heavy? Too valuable? Can it wait to be shipped? Is it allowed to be brought into the country? Can I live without it? Will I really use it? What are appropriate gifts to bring? What can I bring to simplify my complicated family history? What can I bring to teach people about life in America? What can I bring that is funny and entertaining? What about games or songs to teach?

My head spins with all of this and more! But for now, I can only wait and quiet the chatter of my nerves by looking to the immediate, and taking things one day at a time. It is the kind of patience and mental control that must operate within the reality of what one knows for certain, and control the urge of a wondering mind to avoid ambiguous conjecture to which there are no immediate answers. I can only equate this mental discipline with nighttime SCUBA diving, where you must focus on what your flashlight reveals, and not on the vast, dark, undulating ocean around you.

I was forced to practice this once when I flew to Dar es Salaam for the first time to meet my expedition group for a Tanzania adventure. Months before arriving, I was told to find a place to sit in the airport, and wait for a man named Moses to pick me up within one to four hours after my arrival. He was to recognize me from a faxed photograph, and it didn't matter where I parked myself. He would find me. I had no other contact information otherwise. Waiting was all I could do. So I deplaned, extracted my backpack from the plane's belly, and sat down. No sooner had I pulled out my thick novel to carry me through the hours, did Moses appear and whisked me out of the airport. All that nervous anticipation about what I would do in an African country alone, if I didn't meet Moses, never had the chance to rear its head in reality. It was all just spent energy.

2003-09-21T22:20:00.000-04:00

TO FOLLOW MY FEET

Tonight I learned the reason why I have wide, flat, peasant feet. It’s because my maternal grandmother was from Isan, the northeastern region of Thailand. Isan is predominantly agrarian, and everyone there is poor. It is the picture perfect postcard photo of women bent over, knee deep in mud, tending the terraced rice paddies fringed by swaying palm trees, under the background of hazy rolling hills. Isan was the last place my aristocratic Lopburi great-grandmother would have wanted her second son to select a wife, which also explained why my mother had been so abused by that family. She was the polluted bloodline, and she passed that peasant blood on down to me, straight down to my feet.

My feet have been horrible and totally ill suited for the life that I’ve led. They are not only flat, but are flanked by bunions so big the right one is often mistaken for a sixth toe. And because they are so heavily calloused, I really don’t need to, and probably should never wear shoes. While every ounce of my heritage was expecting me to wake up before the sun in a thatched-roof hut with its cool, smooth bamboo mat floors, and walk out into the soft muddy fields, I was squeezing the painful breadth of my feet into stiff penny loafers, tennis whites, leather boots, high-heeled corporate pumps, and even slinky CFM stilettos.

All my life, I was really meant to be wading in the rice fields. Perhaps that is why my life has culminated in an opportunity to be, literally, “out in the field”. My feet are taking me away from painful materialistic confinements and into a world where they will feel more “at home.”

2003-09-16T17:47:00.000-04:00

FAMILY

Yesterday, I broke out in a strange fever. My body ached and alternated between fiery sweat and icy chills. At some point in the delirium, I cried out for my mom. I cried out for her because I knew that she would do anything to make me feel better. And after nurturing me for so many years, I knew that she would know how to make me feel better. Mostly, I just wanted her company, that combination of over concerned pampering combined with her humour and quirky ways.

In the end, I did not call her last night even though she is only fifteen minutes away. I labored through the aches and took medicine that plain knocked me out. I have been away from home for many many years, and have certainly battled sickness on my own before. Although mom is close to me now, I didn't want to indulge myself to be under the care of others. I kept thinking that when I'm in the Peace Corps, I may not have anyone nearby to turn to and how I might have to suffer through such episodes alone. I wondered how I would deal psychologically with the same situation thousands of miles away, without anyone as dear as mom.

The worst of my fever was gone by morning, but the first thing I did was to call mom. After a night of suffering, I needed the concern, the pampering, and especially the home cooked meal. When she came over, I accepted all of her recommended medications, ate her chicken noodle soup, and listened to her neighborhood gossip. I laughed. I felt better. I cried when she left. I cried because I felt my family's love and knew that I would miss it when I'm away. But while I may not have mom's chicken soup or her warm spirit when I'm out in the field, I will know deep in my heart that I have a family's love to carry me through the difficulties that lay ahead. It is my family's love that gives me the strength to pursue all of my endeavors alone. It will be enough to know that if I asked her to, my mom would fly half way around the world to bring me chicken soup. This thought alone will lift me out of a cold sweat and bring a smile to my face.

2003-09-10T18:37:00.000-04:00

WHAT IS CENTRAL ASIA*?

The following has been taken from the "Central Eurasia Studies World Wide" web site:

Definition: Diversity and Coherence

"Central Eurasia" -- for the purposes of «Central Eurasian Studies World Wide» -- is a not-too-neatly circumscribed domain on the interior of the Asian continent. Much ink has been spilled trying to come up with definitive definitions. Though the domain encompasses great diversity, there is also cultural continuity across the broad region, as well as shared history and contemporary problems. In rough terms, "Central Eurasia" encompasses the region from Iranian Azerbaijan and Turkic/Muslim regions of southern Russia in the west, through northern Afghanistan and southern Siberia, to Tibet and Mongolia in the east.

The rationale for this broad definition is that much of the region shares one or many of the following characteristics:

Linguistic and cultural roots

In-migration of Turkic population

Economic life

Islam as a predominant religion

history

Current problems

The contemporary states regions and territories which are covered by this term are, from west to east:

Caucasus

Caspian Basin

Azerbaijan

Georgia

Armenia

Daghestan

Chechnya

Northern Caucasus

Turkic

Muslim

Volga Basin

Southern Russia

Iran

Afghanistan

Turkmenistan

Kazakstan

Uzbekistan

Tajikistan

Kirghizstan

Pakistan

India

Nepal

Southern Siberia

Tuva

Buryatia

Mongolia

Xinjiang/Eastern Turkistan

Muslim

Turkic

Tibet

Inner Mongolia

*While Central Asia is defined here academically, the Peace Corps includes only the former-Soviet Central Asian states, and does not currently have a program in Tajikistan.

2003-09-08T21:06:00.000-04:00

TIMELINE

A chronicle of the application process. So far, I've experienced very quick turn around from the PC. The lengthy time lags displayed here are entirely due to my own delays.

2003-09-07T22:20:00.000-04:00

IMAGES

It will be very important for me in the PC to share my experiences with family and friends. Since snail mail takes too long, and email is often unreliable, I'm hoping to fill the lull periods with this blog, including photos. Here's a first run of my newly acquired skills.

Turkey '03 (click on any image for an enlarged view)

Nova Scotia - Race Week '03

2003-09-06T21:04:00.000-04:00

SHOVELING SHIT

Patrick's wife, Aaisha, works in international development in Africa. I asked him what she thinks about her job. She said for him to tell me, "It's like shoveling shit upstream." Guess I won't be going to her for inspiration.

Even though I want to pursue this with my eyes wide open, I don't want the cynicism and frustration of others to dampen my enthusiasm to at least try. As with most jobs, it will be bureaucratic, political and thankless. It will be emotionally and physically draining, with very little immediate results. But I will have to rise above it all to appreciate any humble returns in the day to day progress...or week to week, month to...

During my studies in the "Faith, Peace and Justice" Program at Boston College, Father Gullietti taught us how a tiny candle is able to caste a lot of light in a dark room. This was meant to inspire us to at least try and do some good amidst the ominous presence of evil. I finally found a quote that elloquently illustrates his teachings.

"How far that little candle throws his beams!
So shines a good deed in a naughty world."

-- The Merchant of Venice, William Shakespear

2003-09-05T18:15:00.000-04:00

IF YOU DON'T HAVE HEALTH INSURANCE

For the medical evaluation, you can utilize a federal facility for free. However, at the time of this writing, I was told by my local Veterans clinic that they were only accepting veterans now because this is a 'time of war'. So I sought the services of the first private outpatient clinic that could schedule an appointment for me. This is in Princeton, N.J.

The following is meant to help those without full medical insurance coverage to estimate the cost of the Medical Evaluation, along with some additional costs for particular conditions. (I could have probably found a less expensive clinic, but chose the most convenient and quickest option.)

Dental:
The full set of x-rays did not cost me anything since my dentist was generous enough waive all charges! (See my newspaper article about this in previous Blog below.)

Dental Examination:..........................$110.00
(includes cleaning)

General Medical:
New patient physical examination.......$242.00
Follow-up visit #1..................................70.00
Blood Type and RH screening..................94.00
Labratory Tests....................................406.00
Follow-up visit #2..................................70.00

Special Conditions:
Chest X-rays (for +TB).........................111.00
Mammogram.......................................377.00
Psychiatric Evaluation..........................105.00

Its a bundle, but all in all, it is worth it. At least I know that anything that can be detected now has been considered!

THE MENTAL PICTURE

The more I read about other Peace Corps volunteer (PCV) experiences in Central Asia, the more scared, excited, curious and nervous I get. As a woman, I'm constantly wondering how must I behave to assimilate, to not get harrassed; how to dress; questions of drinking, smoking, and socializing; how to gain respect. Doubts about success hang over me about the skills I bring, what they need and want; how to be effective. And the fears of failing emotionally, of needing too much support, of missing all the luxurious comforts. And then reality sets in and reminds me that I have only been 'nominated', yet to be 'invited' after the dental, medical, and legal clearance. There are first things first, and so I must get back to doing my taxes...

But the bright spot of today was stopping at the Princeton Dental Group to drop off my letter to the editor. They had already seen it and were totally thrilled! One lady gave me a huge hug, and I can tell that Rita was particularly touched that I mentioned her by name. They are lovely. Funny how a visit to the dentist has turned out to be the positive force that lifts the drudgery of all this bureaucracy.

And lastly, there is my concern for mom. I often feel that I cause her a lot of angst due to my lifestlye and all the risks I take. Even though I know that she worries about me even when I'm near to her, I can't help but feel that I sometimes put her through unnecessary stress by going off to some remote place. But this is my life as I want it to be. It is not the Peace Corps that makes me this way. I have always lived like this, which is why it feels right to be joining. If not PC, then it's the UN, ICRC, VCS, etc...

2003-09-04T22:43:00.000-04:00

THE NASCENT STAGE

A new journey begins now that I've committed to serving in the Peace Corps for the next two years. It may just turn out to be a slight bend in the road, or it may open up a whole new world in my life. For now, it's a process to get through.

I first sent in my on-line application in May, followed by a complete set of forms, essays, recommendation letters, etc., before leaving for Turkey at the end of June. My interview took place upon my return from Nova Scotia in late July, and I was nominated for a Business/NGO Development post the very next day. It came as a big surprise to me that I was nominated to serve in Central Asia! Everyone knows how attached I am to Africa, but the more I openned myself up to this unbelievable opportunity, the more I embraced it.

The new hurdle is getting medical, dental and legal clearance. The past week has been filled with appointments to get poked, prodded, x-rayed and evaluated top to bottom. It's costing me a bundle, but here's a lining in the dark cloud...

Published 2 September 2003 in the Princeton Packet: "Generous Gesture Affirms Faith"

Dear Editor:

A gesture of kindness was bestowed upon me today that I would like to share with the Princeton community.

As I prepare to serve in the Peace Corps for two years as a volunteer in Central Asia, I went to the Princeton Dental Group for my dental evaluation, a required part of the Peace Corps pre-departure process. The extensive evaluation required a thorough examination, including a full set of x-rays and lengthy paperwork for the dentist and his assistant to fill out. Since both people were naturally curious about my upcoming commitment, we chatted about the challenges ahead and the inherent risks involved by going to such a far away and foreign place. To me, it was just an ordinary, friendly chat at the dentist office.

Little did I know at the end of my examination, that Dr. Taylor P. Reeder would offer his services for free! He casually said that I was doing a good thing, and if the Peace Corps was not going to pay for the evaluation, then he would not charge me for it.

Of course this saved me a lot of money, especially for the x-rays, but it was the token kindness in particular that touched me. It helped to make it all worthwhile that I am making a commitment to be of service to our “global community.” Dr. Reeder extended his generosity to me, so that I may go and give to others.

I once read, “Believe in abundance and you shall always have.” What happened today affirmed my faith in that saying. Indeed, our community is part of the privileged minority in the world who live in abundance. Imagine if we all give back, even if only a little, so that others in need may have. That is what I aspire for the world today, and I am telling this story to let your readers know that it is possible to share a part of ourselves with others while maintaining our own abundant lives.

My sincerest appreciation and gratitude go to Dr. Reeder and Rita at the Princeton Dental Group. Thanks to them, I not only have a two-year supply of toothbrushes, but a warm heart and a testament to what I believe in. Our community is a better place with citizens like you.

Dee Warren
Princeton, N.J.